(I will also say that I really have no idea what I am doing - just trial and error based on a video I saw on youtube about how to change the settings)Įarlier you mentioned or were asking about "lower resolution" cameras working better for planetary images, that is not accurate per se.
I adjusted the wavelets before I adjusted the gamma (I think).ģ) adjusted the gamma (biggest difference)Ĥ) denoised total and the "bright side" - all completely to the right (removed the ring that had formed around the planet).ĥ) went back to wavelets and maxed them all out to the right. Changed to avi with PIPP and then stacked with registax 6.īiggest difference was when I adjusted the gamma in the final image - all of a sudden all of the hidden details came out and showed up in color. This is made from a 1 minute movie on full resolution (afocally through the 35 mm f/1.8). Looks like I just improved my image quality noticeably. For stacking and selecting the best subs you may also use Autostakkert.įor best results, consider using a dedicated planet cam - ) Shoot as many pictures as possible during about 2.5 minutes, which means movie mode.
To check out when the GRS (Great Red Spot) is culminating you may use calsky.
There's the Solar System Imaging Forum on cn or Christophe Pellier's Planetary Astronomy website with lots of info about this topic. Or must this be done with stacking software to get these results? I seem to be missing some fundamental technique to get an image with detail which is bright but not over-exposed. Increasing the ISO just seems to cause more over-exposure again.
If I do fast enough images to avoid over-exposure - say 1/15 of a second, then the image shows detail but it is very dark. I find if I do long exposures (slower than about 1/5 second), then the planet gets over-exposed and shows no dSoletail. Can someone guide me to the proper technique to take good pictures of Jupiter?
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